In the enthusiast watch space, collaborations can sometimes feel like a simple dial color swap. But when three titans of their respective industries—Italian minimalist watchmaker UNIMATIC, legendary British vintage military designer Nigel Cabourn, and the bespoke menswear purveyors at The Armoury—join forces, the result is bound to be something spectacularly considered.
Enter the UNIMATIC x Nigel Cabourn x The Armoury Modello Cinque UT5-TANC-B Watch. This highly exclusive, 150-piece limited edition is a brilliant masterclass in blending rugged exploration heritage with functional, everyday elegance. Available at a highly compelling £740, it is a collaborative timepiece that demands a closer look.
A Masterclass in Stonewashed Proportions
The foundation of this collaborative effort is UNIMATIC’s celebrated Modello Cinque case, rendered here in a beautifully wearable 36mm diameter.
While many modern tool watches lean toward bulky, oversized dimensions, this compact footprint honors mid-century military specifications, sliding effortlessly under a tailored cuff from The Armoury or a heavy Everest parka from Cabourn.
The solid stainless steel case has been treated with a remarkable Cerakote™ O.D. navy blue stonewashed coating. This specialized finish not only provides incredible resistance against scratches and abrasions but also delivers a perfectly broken-in, matte aesthetic right out of the box.
Despite its compact, unassuming size, this is a serious aquatic performer. Outfitted with an 8mm screw-down crown and high-quality gaskets, each watch is individually tested to guarantee an uncompromising 300 meters (30 ATM) of water resistance.
High-Contrast Military Dial Dynamics
Protecting the face is a double-domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal, ensuring flawless readability across all lighting conditions. Beneath it lies a matte navy blue dial that serves as a moody, highly legible canvas. The layout is wonderfully utilitarian, featuring printed Arabic numerals and a precise open seconds rail. To inject that coveted vintage warmth, the hour markers and dial trims are generously painted with Super-LumiNova® GL Old Radium.
Time is communicated via a pair of stealthy, matte navy blue phantom ladder hands, but it is the bold pops of color that truly bring the dial to life. The iconic Nigel Cabourn logo sits proudly at six o’clock in a striking “international orange,” perfectly matched by the high-visibility orange tip of the reverse lollipop second hand.
A Reliable Engine with a Mechanical Soul
Purists often debate the merits of quartz, but the engine chosen here bridges the gap brilliantly. Beating inside the stonewashed case is the ultra-reliable Quartz VH31A movement. Unlike traditional quartz calibers that tick once per second, the VH31A provides a smooth, mechanical-like sweep and features a hacking seconds hand for precise time synchronization.
It offers a hassle-free power reserve of approximately two years. True to UNIMATIC’s over-engineered ethos, this movement is safely housed within an orange, Made in Italy TPU anti-shock system, ensuring it can survive the harshest knocks in the field.
Sartorial Finishing Touches
The attention to detail extends all the way to the strap and caseback. The watch is secured to the wrist with a rugged, forest green nylon two-piece strap. Equipped with a quick-release system for effortless swapping, it features stonewashed navy blue Cerakote™ hardware signed by UNIMATIC.
Flipping the watch over reveals a deeply engraved “dazzle camouflage” caseback—a brilliant nod to historical naval ship painting techniques used to confuse enemy rangefinders—along with the individual numbering of the strict 150-piece edition.
Backed by a 24-month global warranty, this three-way collaboration proves that when utilitarian heritage meets sartorial elegance, the results are absolutely timeless.
