The genesis of exceptional timepieces often lies in moments of inspiration, but rarely does it spring from a direct challenge posed by the very collectors who champion the brand. In 2023, during an intimate gathering in Singapore, Ming Thein, the visionary behind MING watches, found himself at the receiving end of such a proposition: to conceive a watch entirely for himself, unbound by commercial constraints yet grounded in feasibility.
The question lingered – could such a creation ever see the light of day, and would a privileged few of his devoted collectors have the opportunity to partake in this personal horological journey? The answer, as it turns out, is a resounding yes, culminating in the remarkable Ming Project 21, a testament to pushing boundaries and embracing the art of horological omakase, now available in a limited 15-piece edition for the discerning public at a price of CHF 32,500.
While every MING creation inherently reflects the brand’s aesthetic sensibilities, commercial considerations often play a subtle role in shaping the final product. However, the challenge presented to Ming Thein offered a unique opportunity to explore the realm of pure personal preference. As MT himself explains, a significant part of the design process involves experimentation, even if it leads to impracticalities or impossibilities. It is in this spirit of “what if?” that the seeds of Project 21 were sown. Faced with the constraints of physics and manufacturing, MT decided to aim for the extraordinary and see where the horological stars aligned.
The journey began with a leap of faith from ten intrepid collectors who committed to a “horological omakase” – a watch with a price cap, an estimated delivery date, and a movement new to the brand, but devoid of any further details. This act of trust paved the way for the unveiling of the Frederic Piguet 21, a movement of profound horological significance. Introduced exactly a century ago in 1925, this remarkably thin movement, measuring a mere 1.75mm, enjoyed an illustrious history, powering timepieces from some of the most revered names in the industry, including Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. It had long been a movement that held a particular fascination for Ming Thein.
The diminutive size of the movement naturally dictated the proportions of the watch itself. While MING has always prioritized wearability, a case smaller than their usual 38mm would indeed cater to a niche market. MT settled upon a 35mm diameter, a size that straddles the line between vintage charm and modern sensibilities. The design was carefully considered to ensure it wears larger than its physical dimensions, achieved through a narrow bezel and dial elements that extend to the very edge. Thinness was paramount to harmonize with the movement’s profile, and modern standards of 50m water resistance and robust torsional rigidity were non-negotiable.
True to MING’s philosophy of meticulous deliberation, Project 21 pushed the boundaries of case design and manufacturing. Eschewing the lightness often associated with smaller cases, MT envisioned a case crafted from dense, exotic tantalum, designed to feel substantial on the wrist. The case features a complex interplay of three contrasting finishes: a mirror polish on the rehaut edge, a fine circular brush on the concave bezel flowing into the lug tops, and a sandblasted finish around the flanks extending to the bottom.
The caseback, uniquely, is not circular but features a rounded trapezoidal protrusion to accommodate the crown tube and stem. The intricate curves and the choice of tantalum presented a formidable multi-axis machining challenge, requiring the expertise of some of the finest case makers in the industry. This seemingly impossible case was brought to life through a collaboration with Joshua Shapiro, a name synonymous with exceptional machining prowess.
The dedication to detail extended beyond the case. Ming Thein’s vision for the Frederic Piguet cal. 21 involved a complete reworking of the vintage movements, featuring new bridges, including one crafted from titanium and colour-matched to the dial, skeletonized to reveal the intricate gear train and adorned with jewels set in chatons. This ambitious undertaking was realized in partnership with TitAl SA and Mathis Horlogerie.
The dial side is equally captivating, featuring a multilayered pattern of strakes beneath a fused borosilicate layer, created in collaboration with FEMTOprint. This intricate structure is suspended over a remarkably thin CVD coated brass plate carrying milling that echoes the strake pattern above. The indices are etched into the external crystal, and the skeletonized hands feature polished and angled flanks. In a departure from MING’s usual practice, Project 21 forgoes luminous material, emphasizing its elegant thinness.
The Ming Project 21 stands as a testament to the pursuit of horological excellence, born from a unique challenge and realized through a dedication to innovative design and meticulous execution. It is a timepiece that embodies balance – visually refined yet tactilely robust, appearing small yet wearing with presence, and blending vintage inspiration with thoroughly modern design codes. Following the delivery of the initial ten “omakase” watches, MING is now offering a limited 15-piece edition of the Project 21 for public release, featuring a stunning 5N rose gold coated dial and matching movement bridges, offering a further glimpse into the boundless creativity that defines the world of MING.
